Piccalilli
Right in the heart of Culver City, a dinner experience you’ll keep getting very pleasant flashbacks of for a while.
Intensely aromatic, beautifully prepared and sensational till the last bite.
Menu
Refreshingly minimalist with a nice balance between vegetable-forward plates and protein-centered ones. The menu has less than 20 options on there and it’s split into four sections based on the size of the serving. Everything on it is meant to be shared so grab a friend or two because you’re going to want to try more than just one entrée. Overall, Piccalilli cooks modern dishes heavily inspired by classic Southeast Asian cuisine and draws from traditional French techniques.
Food
I tried the Crispy Eggplant & Sweet Tofu, Cured Fluke Tartare, House Tomato Curry, and the Japanese Sweet Potato – all of which were exceptional. Each dish was balanced, beautifully colorful, well seasoned and craftily executed. Generous amount of fresh herbs, mainly mint and Thai basil, as per usual in Southeast Asian cuisine but Piccalilli infuses a fine-dining French element in their presentation. The fluke tartare, tucked underneath a layer of crispy potatoes and beautiful flowers, draws acidity from the lemon and vinegar and eats almost like a fish ceviche with a tostada. The crunch of the potatoes makes the fish feel even more delicate and tender than it already is.
The acidity element is present in the crispy eggplant dish as well – where the curry vinaigrette and sweet tofu are well complimented by Dukkah; an earthy ancient Egyptian blend of nuts, spices and herbs, which I was elated to see on the menu. It was sweet, sour, salty, bitter and umami – basically a pleasantly overwhelming five-way sensation for your tongue’s taste receptors that sends an explosion of ecstasy into your brain telling you “holy shit, this is really good”. And that’s about all the bro science I’m giving today but you get the gist of it. A balance between these five taste modalities takes your senses on an exhilarating rollercoaster, tasting each one with every turn.
I love a good curry, especially on a cold night. This one was hearty, creamy, tangy, spicy and filled with vegetables. The herbs rounded out the plate and gave it color too. They served it with a garlic naan but it wasn’t that great of a naan. I think it was more than slightly burned and could have used more butter and garlic but you can bet that I still scooped up the rest of the curry sauce with it.
Lastly, the Japanese sweet potato. I thought it was a bit much to pay $9 for a side of potatoes but man was I wrong… I could have just eaten those and still left very happy with the meal. Japanese sweet potatoes are starchier than regular sweet potatoes and have an incredible nutty flavor. They’re cut diagonally, like plantains, and fried well-done to a crisp but are still moist and soft on the inside. They seasoned it with Japanese curry salt, something I now need in my pantry, and served it with ribbons of pickled ginger (the kind you get with sushi - and its a happier marriage than you think) and Indian pickle aioli to dip. It’s a damn good potato dish.
Drinks
Piccalilli’s mixology is very spirit-focused and their cocktails live up to that. Every single cocktail on the menu commands your attention. Each one has no more than the liquor and two or three ingredients that make the spirit itself shine yet look stunning when served. I got the Oaxacan Gentleman, a 96-proof Yuu Baal Mezcal with a maraschino cherry and some cherry bitterns, and I’m so mad I forgot to take a picture of it to show you. It was poured over one massive ice cube that was perfectly symmetrical on the top half while the bottom half looked like an imperfect iceberg floating in Mezcal and dark red bitters that sank to the bottom. The Mezcal was the center of attention, deservingly so.
Service and Hospitality
On Saturday’s, Piccalilli features special food and drink menu items that are centered around pineapple. The staff will also wear Hawaiian shirts on Saturday’s. So, if you love pineapple or have a particular affinity to Hawaiian shirts, go on a Saturday. The staff was very welcoming and friendly and service was quick and seamless.
Ambiance
The overall atmosphere of the restaurant is a physical reflection of their culinary soul. Classic yet modern. Multifarious yet refined and simple. I wish I could have sat inside because their dining room is more of what I just described than the outdoor, COVID-friendly, seating but I will definitely be back to experience it when things settle. The patio, wrapped with greenery, features views of the Culver Hotel and many restaurants and bars in the neighborhood.
Pricing
We got two cocktails, three entrées and a side for a little under $100, pre-tax and tip. For an LA restaurant with outdoor service, a talented crew, great food and cocktails, Piccalilli offers a phenomenal dining experience at a fair value. I have, begrudgingly, paid more for less – in quantity and quality.